Above: night traffic, Shyam Nagar, Jaipur, 13 Feb 2009.
To make Rajasthani chai boil half part water, half whole milk with loose black tea and sugar. Pour through a sieve into mugs and serve. For masala chai add none, some, or all of the following: black pepper (whole peppercorns or ground), ginger (fresh or dry), cardamom (pods or crushed), cinnamon (sticks or powder).
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I’m in Jaipur, the capital city of Rajasthan. The last week I have been traveling between here and far western Rajasthan to the desert city of Jaisalmer. Back in Jaipur, I’ve been working with a guesthouse cook on typical local dishes. The past few mornings the cook, Harish, was making parathas, a north Indian breakfast bread
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